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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.